PILIS
Crags in Pilis mountain are among the oldest and most popular.
A climbers' guide from 1913 already mentioned all the climbing places here.
Some of them are not used for climbing any more, because of the bad quality
of the rock or the dead easy routes. The cliffs are only 20-25 m high, but
they offer lots of interesting routes. The crags are not far from Budapest,
a maximum 40 minutes travel by car and some minute walk.
Strázsa-hegy:
You can get there easily by car. From Budapest drive until Dorog. Go through thisdirty town, follow the new road, then a dirt road leads you to the cliffs.
This crag is little, but absolutely not boring. A magnificant cave hides the
nicest and most spectacular overhang and roof climbs around Budapest (IX-X).
There is an outside rockface (18 m) with overhanging routes (VII-IX), and
another on the right with easier routes (V-VII-). The routes are usually
well-protected by bolts.
Kétágu-hegy:
Drive towards Dorog, but before you reach the town, turn right at the Kesztölc
sign. From Kesztölc follow the dirt road, it leads to the bottom of the hill.
From there walk on the green trail to the crag (30 min), or just hike straight
up the hillside. Camp at the bottom of the hill, you can get water from the
village.
Even when it's early spring, sunshine warms the white rocks on the bushy
hillside and makes the climbing pleasant here. The very first route in Hungary
was opened here in 1903!!! The crag is still very popular because of the great
variety of forms. From the top you can enjoy the breath-taking view. (Yeah!)
The biggest rockface is 20 m high, full of easy and not-so-easy routes
(from III to X+). There are two more little rockfaces with easy routes.
Vaskapu:
Budapest-Pomáz-Pilisszentkereszt, then follow the green trail to the bottom
of the hill. From here a 15 minute walk up to the top.
On the cool, northern slope there is a strange monster of stone with two
arches like eyes. The 10-15 m high rock is good quality limestone. The routes
are generally easy or moderate (III-VII-), but not usual. They can be easily
protected. Take an unforgettable walk on the ridge over the beech forest - you
can't miss it!
Pilisszántó:
This crag in Pilis is the easiest of access from Budapest. From Pilisszántó
walk on the path to the cliffs in front of you.
The 20 m high wavy limestone rockface holds 10 routes (V-VIII). The cave on the
right has some easier routes on both sides (IV-VII), and here is a little bit
difficult one (IX). The routes are protected.
Oszoly:
It was the most important crag in the beginning of the century, today it's
a legendary climbing place. Generations of climbers have learned the basics
of climbing here. On three rockfaces there are about 50 classical routes.
Most of them are technical face climbs on stabil limestone. Oszoly is popular
because of the vast variety of moderate routes (V-VII).
>From Budapest it's easy to get there, especially by car. Drive until Pomáz,
turn to Csobánka, and you will arrive at a small square. Turn left and drive to
the parking place below the cliffs. You can bivouac or camp here.